Orange Belt Technique
This technique works for a front bear hug with our arms pinned. That stated, it is important to learn to respond to the low bear hug as the opponent is coming forward, rather than after the bear hug has been fully applied.
As the opponent attempts the bear hug, we step back with our right foot into a left forward bow, taking an angle of least resistance. The forward bow provides the bracing angle that prevents the opponent from driving us back and taking us to the ground. Note that a forward bow provides the brace for a low tackle, whereas a neutral bow provides the brace for a high tackle (e.g., Striking Serpent’s Head). At the same time that we step back, we drive our thumbs up to the opponent’s bladder or groin area. When doing so, be sure to place our thumbs firmly against our fists to give the thumbs support and back-up mass for the strikes. Also, make sure that you move your arms directly from point of origin. This will ensure that we are able to effectively and efficiently get to the bladder or groin area with our thumbs. The bladder shot will create some distance for the next move.
After the bladder shot, our left hand traps the opponent’s right arm as we deliver a right knee to the opponent’s groin. The trap cancels the opponent’s width and also prevents the opponent’s right arm from going up and hitting our face as he reacts to the knee kick we deliver to the groin. With our right knee still in the air, we immediately deliver a right side kick to the opponent’s left knee or shin, which further cancels his width.
We then finish with a right inward elbow to the opponent’s head. Note that Thrusting Prongs is the inside version of Gift of Destruction where both techniques utilize a break to the opponent’s elbow followed by a right inward elbow.
Showing posts with label Orange Belt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Orange Belt. Show all posts
Monday, January 29, 2007
Thursday, January 18, 2007
Triggered Salute
Orange Belt Technique
This technique is designed for a front, right hand direct push to our left shoulder. We should note that direct shoulder to shoulder pushes, such as Triggered Salute, force us to work on the inside of the opponent’s body and arm. As the opponent pushes, take an angle of least resistance to help absorb the force of the push. If we “fight” the push, we will find ourselves getting shoved backward quite hard, which may enable the opponent to follow-up with extra strikes if we are not careful.
That stated, there are two key angles of least resistance for this type of attack: (1) is to ride the force of the push (borrowed force) by stepping our right foot forward towards 12 o’clock and (2) is to borrow the force by stepping back with our left foot into a right neutral bow. Whichever angle of least resistance we take (note that #1 is the most commonly taught method), be sure to move from point of origin and simultaneously pin the opponent’s right hand with our left hand while coming up the blind side of the opponent so that he can’t see our right heel palm strike to the jaw or chin.
Also, be sure to simultaneously check the opponent’s right knee with our right knee to give the opponent an angle of disturbance. This knee check is a positional check. The key here is to get the hand check, heel palm, and knee check to work simultaneously. Since we are always concerned about height, width, and depth, let’s examine how these are cancelled in Triggered Salute.
The initial heel palm will raise the opponent up on his toes (height cancellation), which prevents any type of counter knee or kick. The width is also controlled because the opponent’s free (left) hand cannot reach as the heel palm is executed. Depth is also cancelled because there is weight on the back leg, thereby preventing the opponent from being able to move forward or backwards. Should we not make good contact with the heel palm, the next move involves a horizontal crane elbow break to the opponent’s right arm (although I often see this taught as a bicep strike by stunning the arm downward), which further controls the opponent’s width and his ability to retaliate with the free (left) arm. We then hit on the third point on the circle, specifically the right inward elbow strike to the solar plexus. The outward elbow that follows further controls the opponent’s width. From that elbow, we execute a right back knuckle strike to the kidney and/or ribs and follow through with a right uppercut strike to the opponent’s chin.
This technique is designed for a front, right hand direct push to our left shoulder. We should note that direct shoulder to shoulder pushes, such as Triggered Salute, force us to work on the inside of the opponent’s body and arm. As the opponent pushes, take an angle of least resistance to help absorb the force of the push. If we “fight” the push, we will find ourselves getting shoved backward quite hard, which may enable the opponent to follow-up with extra strikes if we are not careful.
That stated, there are two key angles of least resistance for this type of attack: (1) is to ride the force of the push (borrowed force) by stepping our right foot forward towards 12 o’clock and (2) is to borrow the force by stepping back with our left foot into a right neutral bow. Whichever angle of least resistance we take (note that #1 is the most commonly taught method), be sure to move from point of origin and simultaneously pin the opponent’s right hand with our left hand while coming up the blind side of the opponent so that he can’t see our right heel palm strike to the jaw or chin.
Also, be sure to simultaneously check the opponent’s right knee with our right knee to give the opponent an angle of disturbance. This knee check is a positional check. The key here is to get the hand check, heel palm, and knee check to work simultaneously. Since we are always concerned about height, width, and depth, let’s examine how these are cancelled in Triggered Salute.
The initial heel palm will raise the opponent up on his toes (height cancellation), which prevents any type of counter knee or kick. The width is also controlled because the opponent’s free (left) hand cannot reach as the heel palm is executed. Depth is also cancelled because there is weight on the back leg, thereby preventing the opponent from being able to move forward or backwards. Should we not make good contact with the heel palm, the next move involves a horizontal crane elbow break to the opponent’s right arm (although I often see this taught as a bicep strike by stunning the arm downward), which further controls the opponent’s width and his ability to retaliate with the free (left) arm. We then hit on the third point on the circle, specifically the right inward elbow strike to the solar plexus. The outward elbow that follows further controls the opponent’s width. From that elbow, we execute a right back knuckle strike to the kidney and/or ribs and follow through with a right uppercut strike to the opponent’s chin.
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
Clutching Feathers
Orange Belt Technique
This technique works for someone grabbing our hair with his left hand. As mentioned in previous blog techniques, our first consideration when someone is grabbing us is typically the opponent's free hand, or the one that isn't grabbing us. Just as important is to make sure that we pin the hand that is grabbing us. If we neglect the importance of the pin as someone grabs our hair, and proceed by simply trying to knock it off, we will likely lose a good chunk of it. Therefore, in Clutching Feathers, we pin the opponent's left grabbing hand with our left hand and step back with our left foot into a right neutral bow to get away from the opponent's free (right) hand which could potentially punch us. This, of course, assumes that the environment allows us to step back. The pin and step back will put the opponent on an angle of disturbance, as his height and width will be controlled momentarily. In sync with the pin and step back, we strike with a right middle knucke shot to the lymph nodes underneath the opponent's left armpit.
A few noteworthy points about the middle knuckle strike: (1) this is a specialized weapon aimed at hitting a specific target. If a straight vertical thrust punch were to be used instead of the right middle knuckle strike, it wouldn't be able to penetrate the nerves in the armpit which facilitate the release of the opponent's grabbing hand to our hair (2) the middle knuckle strike to the lymph nodes is a THRUSTING strike as opposed to a SNAPPING ONE. The idea is to thrust our middle knuckle strike right into the attacker's lymph nodes (3) the middle knuckle strike will cancel the opponent's height by raising him up on his toes (thus preventing any type of a counter knee or kick attack); this in turn, will aid in the width cancellation which means that the opponent will be unable to counter with his free (right) hand because he is up on his toes; the depth is cancelled as well.
So what do we want to do when someone grabs our hair? Pin the opponent's hand that is grabbing us to save our hair, and get away from the opponent's other arm. Just as important is to cause injury to the attacker so that we can safely escape from the encounter.
This technique works for someone grabbing our hair with his left hand. As mentioned in previous blog techniques, our first consideration when someone is grabbing us is typically the opponent's free hand, or the one that isn't grabbing us. Just as important is to make sure that we pin the hand that is grabbing us. If we neglect the importance of the pin as someone grabs our hair, and proceed by simply trying to knock it off, we will likely lose a good chunk of it. Therefore, in Clutching Feathers, we pin the opponent's left grabbing hand with our left hand and step back with our left foot into a right neutral bow to get away from the opponent's free (right) hand which could potentially punch us. This, of course, assumes that the environment allows us to step back. The pin and step back will put the opponent on an angle of disturbance, as his height and width will be controlled momentarily. In sync with the pin and step back, we strike with a right middle knucke shot to the lymph nodes underneath the opponent's left armpit.
A few noteworthy points about the middle knuckle strike: (1) this is a specialized weapon aimed at hitting a specific target. If a straight vertical thrust punch were to be used instead of the right middle knuckle strike, it wouldn't be able to penetrate the nerves in the armpit which facilitate the release of the opponent's grabbing hand to our hair (2) the middle knuckle strike to the lymph nodes is a THRUSTING strike as opposed to a SNAPPING ONE. The idea is to thrust our middle knuckle strike right into the attacker's lymph nodes (3) the middle knuckle strike will cancel the opponent's height by raising him up on his toes (thus preventing any type of a counter knee or kick attack); this in turn, will aid in the width cancellation which means that the opponent will be unable to counter with his free (right) hand because he is up on his toes; the depth is cancelled as well.
So what do we want to do when someone grabs our hair? Pin the opponent's hand that is grabbing us to save our hair, and get away from the opponent's other arm. Just as important is to cause injury to the attacker so that we can safely escape from the encounter.
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Lone Kimono
Orange Belt Technique
Lone Kimono is one of my favorite Kenpo self-defense techniques. It works for someone grabbing our lapel with his left hand. When someone grabs us this way, our first consideration should be the opponent's free hand, which in this case would be his right arm since a grab is often followed up with a punch. Since the environment allows us to step back, we do so with our left leg while simultaneously pinning the opponent's left grabbing hand. Note that by stepping back, we are controlling the opponent's height zone because of the weight on his left (front) leg, thereby eliminating the possibility of the opponent being able to kick or knee us with either leg. The width is also canceled which means that momentarily the opponent will not be able to punch us with his free (right) hand. Finally, the depth is also controlled since the opponent is unable to move forward or backward effectively.
After pinning the opponent's left grabbing hand, and then stepping back with our left foot to get away from the opponent's free hand, we immediately execute a right upward break to the opponent's left elbow. This elbow break also controls the opponent's height by raising the attacker up on his toes, and controls the width by preventing any type of counter punch from the opponent. After breaking the opponent's left elbow, we then rake the arm diagonally down which could possibly work as an additional elbow break, but will control the opponent's depth and width. We then compliment the angle of the opponent's left arm and finish with a hand sword to the neck.
If the environment did not allow us to step back (because of, say, a wall behind us), we could front ball kick the opponent's right knee and force him to step back (similar to Conquering Shield). Why this option? Because again, since the opponent's free hand is our greatest concern, this kick would turn the opponent's right shoulder away from us, thus canceling the width of the opponent which would prevent him from punching us with his right hand.
Lone Kimono is one of my favorite Kenpo self-defense techniques. It works for someone grabbing our lapel with his left hand. When someone grabs us this way, our first consideration should be the opponent's free hand, which in this case would be his right arm since a grab is often followed up with a punch. Since the environment allows us to step back, we do so with our left leg while simultaneously pinning the opponent's left grabbing hand. Note that by stepping back, we are controlling the opponent's height zone because of the weight on his left (front) leg, thereby eliminating the possibility of the opponent being able to kick or knee us with either leg. The width is also canceled which means that momentarily the opponent will not be able to punch us with his free (right) hand. Finally, the depth is also controlled since the opponent is unable to move forward or backward effectively.
After pinning the opponent's left grabbing hand, and then stepping back with our left foot to get away from the opponent's free hand, we immediately execute a right upward break to the opponent's left elbow. This elbow break also controls the opponent's height by raising the attacker up on his toes, and controls the width by preventing any type of counter punch from the opponent. After breaking the opponent's left elbow, we then rake the arm diagonally down which could possibly work as an additional elbow break, but will control the opponent's depth and width. We then compliment the angle of the opponent's left arm and finish with a hand sword to the neck.
If the environment did not allow us to step back (because of, say, a wall behind us), we could front ball kick the opponent's right knee and force him to step back (similar to Conquering Shield). Why this option? Because again, since the opponent's free hand is our greatest concern, this kick would turn the opponent's right shoulder away from us, thus canceling the width of the opponent which would prevent him from punching us with his right hand.
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